You can see a fulll list of the available tutorials to the right. Enjoy! And if you have any questions feel free to ask.

Tuesday
Jan262016

Making an Convergence themed finals table for Las Vegas Open

I am working on the finals table for this years Las Vegas Open.
With the help of Archi of http://tectoniccraftstudios.com/ with the laser cutting I thought I could make a cool Convergence themed board. And I just have just a few weeks to get it all done!
I took inspiration from the great table Kris Johnson at Mechanica studios made for WMW.

Shameless plug for LVO too. https://www.frontlinegaming.org/las-...achine-events/

So to start things off I laid everything out in the computer for the laser cutting.



Once it was all laid out I broke out all the parts for Archi to cut up. And Archi made the gears even cooler too.



A short time later a great pile of parts showed up. This is just part of it I opened up. 



Some of the gears painted up.



Some of the parts stacked up and glued for the side board. I used wood glue to assemble everything so it would be nice and strong. 




The play surface is going to be made up of a few layers of mdf wood. This will make it nice and strong as there is no way to keep people from leaning on it. 
I laid the intermediate layer on the bottom layer so I could trace the openings out. The bottom layer is 1/4" mdf and one piece so it will be nice and strong. The next two top layers are 1/4" laser cut mdf.

After the holes were traced out I added a 1/4"ish offset so you won't see the thicker under layer.


Drilled holes in the corners to help jig saw cut the parts out.



Pic with the openings cut out. 



And the middle layer laid on top.

Here is one of the side boards. 
The layers are glued together and then test assembled with the verticals.


The verticals are going to have a piece of plexi between them so it will light up with the table. 



And some of the industrial terrain that will be on the table too. 
The center will be a big glowing eyeball thing.



Time to build the boxes that the table and side boards will sit on. 
The bottom is 1/2" plywood so it will be nice and strong. The rest of it is 1/4" MDF. This way it is still pretty strong and I won't have to sand everything to make it nice to smooth.
I ripped down the edge pieces on the table saw to 5". All the parts get put together with wood glue and then pin nailed with a finish nail gun. 





Once that dried a little bit I flipped it over and glued a 3" strip of mdf inside. This is going to be the lip the finished table surface will rest on. 



And the 2nd set of 3" support strips. 

Box for the larger side board. 







This is about as far as I can take the side board box until I get the facing finished and the lights set up.

Here is the table with box and play surface set on it. It is pretty stiff since there are three layers of MDF glued together, but I will be adding support posts underneath as they is no way I can keep people from leaning on it. 



Now to lay out the gears. I printed the the gear locations from my original concept design with some dimensions on them so I can locate them on the table. 



And with the gears on the board. I then put to top back on to make sure everything lined up correctly and fixed any locations that needed it. 



Each gear is going to get a motor. I got some 6v 20rpm motors off ebay. I made wood mounting blocks for them. This also gets the gears off the bottom of the table to make room for the other do-dads that are going to go in there. 

To power this thing I am going to put a power strip in it so I can plug in the transformers. The transformers will give me 12v power for the LED's and 6v power for the motors. I also sketched out the squares where the motors will mount to. 



Motos mounted with little L-brackets. Got shallow screws so they did not go through the bottom of the table. 



Soldering up the connections. I am wiring them up so if one shorts or I have to remove it the rest will still work.



All finished wiring for the motors. (I later ended up adding a switch for the motors so I could stop them without having to unplug the whole thing.

With the gears mounted. 



And with the motors on. 


 
Once I made sure everything was working I dry fit the top to see what it was going to look like. 



Now I get to start adding some lights. I hoped that the edge lighting would be enough to light up the entire board without shining in peoples faces. This is where I get to find out.

I used some painters tape to tack on the light strips. I will need to removed them and paint the inside first before they go on permanently. 
You can also see the stand-offs I added to help keep the table from collapsing when people lean on it. 



And with the lights turned on! I ended up adding a second row of LED strip so it would be a little bit brighter in well lit rooms.



The LED strips controller has a bunch of different options for colors and light pasterns. While playing I would expect to keep it a solid color. Though it does have an IR remote so maybe in the middle of a casual game I can F with them a little...

Time to paint the inside of the table. I removed the power strip and taped off the tops of the motors. Everything else is going to get spray painted black.



And after a few coats of black spray paint.

Patching up the joints and nail holes to sand them smooth. Also assembling the smaller side board. The side boards are separate for for easy of transportation and also so I can just take to main board out to play with if I want to. Carting around a 4'x4" table is not too bad. But a 6'x4' table that weighs 100 lbs would be a little much. 





Here you can see the transformers and the controller for the LED strips. The LED strips have adhesive backing which makes them nice and easy to install. 



I installed two rows of LED strip. Fortunately they are still high enough that they don't shine in players eyes. 

And with the lights on. They come with an IR controller so it is super easy to turn them on/off and change the colors.



And here are the strip LED lighting I used.





First coat of paint on the table. I used a spray paint for this. Mostly so it would be nice and smooth and I would not have to worry about flooding the details on the board. I used a warm gray color called Granite. 
It took a few coats a paint to get a nice solid coat of paint. I also did the side boards at the same time.



Once that had dried I set it on the table and started lining up the pipes I will add to the interior to make it a little more interesting. I used 1/2" PVC pipe for it.



Once I had them cut I spray painted them silver. Then tapped some holes and screwed the to the bottom of the table. I also added some other grating and do-dads I had laying around. 



And with the lights on.

Next up now that all the spray paint base color is all dry I started adding a hex patter to everything. I did it so it was fading in and out so the table would not be too busy, but still have some "texture" to it. Just a plain grey table would be kinda boring. 



Next up is adding some painted glow effects to the tables to help break up all the grey. I had to do a bunch of taping off to keep the paint where I wanted it.



For the glows I used P3 arcane blue and then some light blue grey. 



And all finished up. Once this was nice I dry I clear coated everything so it will be some what scratch resistant. 

 The other part of the side larger side board. 



On the larger side board pictured above there is going to be a blue plexi eye/aperture that will light up. I am going to build a box that I can line with LEDs to make it glow. I used some foam core as it is nice and think and light.



Glued on and painted the inside rim black.



Before I can put the lights in the "eye" I need to do the lights in the base of the side board. The side board buttresses will have a layer of Plexi sandwiched between the outer layer so they will glow. Originally I was just going to have some LED's shining up it. But I wanted them to match the board as it can change colors. So now I am going to run the LED strip to it.

I built some backing mounts for the LED strips. I could have just taped them in with some Duct tape, but I was worried that if it ever came unstuck getting in there would be a SUPER pain in the butt to fix it. 





And testing before everything was dry to make sure I did not pinch the strip. If anything was messed up fixing it later would be difficult. 



I have a hole in the side of the main board so I can connect the side board strip to the power supply. 

After the glue set up I flipped it over and set it in for a test fit. 



Once I made sure it still fit ok, I added some blocking and painted the edges of the side board.



I want to be able to take apart the side board just in case something happens with the lights, or if I want to change the way the lights are set up. So instead of gluing the finished faces on I am going to screw them into the blocking. 



And the blocking and counter sink holes for the vertical face. 



Doing up the LED strip inside the vertical panel. It will get another foam core backing panel that I will leave white to help with reflecting the light.





Now that the faces are attached for the side board I glued on the top. Just to the three side though so I can still take the facing off if needed. 





Once that was all dry I painted the outside of everything a dark grey. I did not want black because of the jarring contrast between it and the finished table. 



And with some of the terrain on it. 



Next up I wanted to have a clock for the table that matched. After going through all this and having to put a bright red/green clock on the board made me cringe inside. I took one of my DGI clocks apart and painted it up.
It came apart pretty easy with just some screws. Some of the parts were plastic "welded" inside so they got taped off and the rest of the guts (that were still attached ) got set to the side and covered with some paper.

Primed and then sprayed with the same base color as the board. 


Hex pattern applied. Because, why not? and then glow effects added to the panel openings. 



Once it stops raining I can get it clear coated and re-assembled.



Oh, and sorry for the crappy video.

I still have stuff to do on the table too.
-Get the plexi installed
-Get the central side board solar system thing finished. Though I am maybe thinking of getting one of those floating globes to repaint and put there. I will see if I can find a cheap one. Unless someone has one around they don't want any more...
-Make some flags and objectives for the table.
-Paint up the optifex workers and drones to decorate the table with.
-Finish up the hills, smoke forests, trenches, etc.

I could just imagine what large casino dice or any other heavy dice would do to this table, so I made some dice trays that match the table. And woe to anyone that does not use them.....

I cut strips down on the table saw and clamped them with some glue to an 8"x8" square piece of MDF.



I made three of them so I would have an extra for myself. 
I sanded down the joints so everything was mostly smooth.



Primed.



With the grey base paint that the table got and then the hex pattern. Once everything was nice and dry they got a few coats of spray clear coat.

Adding felt to the bottom to help keep it from scratching the table. And felt to the inside to dampen the dice some.



Last batch of parts showed up!



This is kind of what the center piece on the large side board is going to look like. Probably going to add some painted ping-pong ball planets to it too.



Plexi panels test fit onto the table. I had to sand some of them down to fit. This was more because the wood parts of the table were put together jig-saw like, so the openings for the plexi panels did not match the CAD designs perfectly anymore. Next time I do something like this I am going to try and have the clear panels when I start assembling the table to make sure everything fits.



More test fitting. You can see some of the areas that done quite fit down into the table.



The surrounding plexi parts for the CoC logo face.



Some of the walls for the table. I made some cool resin ones, but I ran out of mold material for them. So these will have to do for now.



Last of the parts painted up.

I did not want to go with really tall hills for this table. I figured most models will not have a problem straddling one layer of 1/8" mdf. So I built up 2 staggered layers to be "hills" for the table. I also have a themed trench that I don't have a picture of yet here.



The Convergence logo with in the center'ish of the table.



And the table with the Plexi panels installed and glued. I used a clear no-toxic glue to adhere the panels the the board. If I press hard enough from the bottom they should pop off if I need to work with them later. But this should be strong enough to keep them in place for now. I weighted them down to give the glue a chance to dry. Before they were placed in I put on some gloved (no fingerprints!) and cleaned all the parts will with plexiglass cleaner. I would hate to get everything installed only to find finer prints and streaks on the back side of the plexi.

Now that I have the plexi parts I can get the up rights glued together. The glue I used for this, while nice for other application, it messed up the paint.....
I the future I will use a more gentile clear adhesive.



Uprights glued and clamped to dry. The paper towels were there to protect the paint from the clamps. The rubber on the clamps tends to stick to the paint once they have been there for a little bit. 



The next day I took the clamps off and there were problems....



The glue had softened the paint (through the mdf) and the paper towels stuck to the paint, I was not happy.
I peeled the paper towel bits off and then sanded down all the blemishes and texture the paper towels left.

I taped off the plexi and edges so they could get repainted. Some of the areas were still ok so I left them alone. 



Next I re-did the hex pattern and the glowing parts.

Peeling off the tape and everything looks mostly ok. There are a few dimples and marks that you can't really see. But I really don't want to re-cut, glue and paint the uprights again.



And installed. 

I painted up a bunch of optifex and servitors to decorated the table with and make objectives. 



And the objectives and servitors. 



This will be going in the center of the large side board.

Painted the runes, and used brass pins to attached the circles to each other. The ping pong balls are going to be little planet things interspersed around it. I drilled holes in them and put tooth-picks in them glued to the opposite inside also so they won't flop around. 



Primed, painted the base table color and then the hex pattern added. 



"Planets" installed. I also added some glowing trace work to them to spice them up.



With the Optifex added and some servitors floating around the rings. Also the finished "flags" and objectives for the table.

For forests I am making some "steam" vents with removable smoke/steam.
I used some MDF laser'd frames, glued some sheet metal to the back. I wanted to be able to magnetize the smoke to them.



With the masking tape off.



This stuff makes pretty good grating for projects. It is nice and light and easy to work with since it is softer aluminum. 



With some cut out, then super glued down.


Using expanded foam I made some smoke plumes. They will get painted black, then grey and white from the top. I will probably also add some OSL blue to the bottom of them too.

Now pretty much everything for the table is finished. 

Picture of the table with side boards without any terrain on it. Ideally I would have the main power cord coming out of the back side board, but I wanted to be able to just play with the center board without having to care around the side boards. I guess I could have the access hole on the side of the center board then have a pass through on the side board. I will have to see about doing that on the next one. 



With the lights on.



I think I want to add a rotating planetary gear grouping behind the eye. That won't be too hard as I set everything up to be disassembled. It will have to wait till after LVO though.

The plexi centers of the vertical supports are not as bright as I had hoped, but without LED's right up against them they wont be. But as least the color match as the table changes colors.



With the terrain on it.



The "trench" has magnetized walls so they come off for easy placement with necessary. 






Tuesday
Jan262016

Making an India themed finals table for Las Vegas Open

I will be doing a special board for the Las Vegas Open too! It will be similar in style to the WTC tables that had a main 4x4 play section and two side boards that are all built up and scenic. 

It will be and India temple themed board. So lots of temples that are overgrown with roots and cool statues. 

So something along this theme. 


And here are the statues I am making a bunch of.  I made a mold of some metal statues, then made Hydrostone copies of them. This will let me break them up too as needed.

On the left is going to be a large cliff that the statues will be carved into. On top of the cliff will be some trees. There will also be large trees on the side boards that look like this.



There will be a path way that leads up to the statues and the pool that is below the big face in the center.
On the right will be a valley entrance kinda setup with the cliffs and a path the leads between them flanked by statues.
There will also be ruined temples and such. The white pipe you see if the core of one of the trees for a sense of scale.
The main play area of the table is going to be flat with movable obstructions, walls, forests and such that are themed to the table. I plan on making themed zones for this table too if I have time. They would be thin laser cut zones with rune etching and they would match the feel of the board. So no brown felt zones to ruin the look!

The pathway is made with Hirst arts stone pavers. I broke them up and routered out depressions in the table for them to go into. 




Jumping ahead a little bit. After layering up the foam board, I carved it up using a compination of hot wire cutter and long sharp knife. After that I textured the faces with concreet patch. This will give it some texture along with toughening up the surface. 

The verticals trees are first made with 2" PVC pipe, then I used gauze bandage dipped in plaster and draped them around the pipes. To make the roots I twirled up the plaster gause and starting draping them on. As I would going along I used a brush and some water to help clean up the dripping plaster. 

Some of the statues in their alcoves. For the texture on the flat surfaces I put down a thick layer of paint and covered it with sand. I just use cheap latex house paint. It is nice and turable and thick enough for sand to stick to easily. 



So the terraining part of the side board is mostly done here.



First I painted the board with a coat of latex paint and covered it with sand. Once that was dry I brushed it off and covered it with another coat of paint. This seals in the sand nicely and makes the play surface nice and tough.



Adding some color variation to the table using green and brown washes. I made the washes with cheap craft paint and water. You don't need anything fance for terrain tables.

Dry brushed the surface sand to bring out the texture, along with painting the trees brown. 

Rocks washed and highlighted along with the trees highlight.



Shot of the table before grass and bushes.



The tables are almost finished up. I just have to finish the water effects and some small details. Pictures with the grass and clump foliage added.

Added some green flocking to the statues for some moss.



Side frame painted a dark green/black color. I like having something not pure black to paint the borders with so they don't contrast the table too badly.

The bottom of the pond painted and moss added where the water wil be trickling from the face.

Some of the terrain objstructions for the table. 



Got the scenic table to Las Vegas Open all finished up! One of the goals of it was to have an easily playable surface for it. So the play surface is a little simpler. 
For next year I REALLY liked the Cryx necrite mining field WMW did. So I might take direct inspiration from that. It would still be a "flat" playing surface but with all the recessed pipes with grating over them it would add a lot of depth to the table. Maybe even add some lights!











Thursday
Oct222015

Making a Table War magnetized Convergence of Cyriss Caring case

A little project for my self. I have a Table War case that my Convergence lives in and I wanted to spruce it up a little bit. 

The logo itself has been water jet out of a stainless steel plate.
Here is it back from water jet cutting.
1.


Edges are still kinda sharp and will need some filing/sanding. 
2.


Files and belt sander used to smooth out the edges. Most likely the symbol will be rubbing against things so it needs to be smooth so not to snag on cloths and such.
3.


Symbol laid out on the front of the Table War case as a test fit. The Symbol itself is 12" in dia. 
4.

The case front has a little bit of a bow to it. So I will have to clamp the symbol down when I attach it.
5.


A bit of a jump ahead. The first time I tried to attach it I had some books stacked on it. When I came back a few hours later the the symbol had slid and was all off center. So I ripped it all off, cleaned up the glue and did it again. 
I used a clear adhesive that has a little flex in it once it drys. This way as the case flexes and things rub again the symbol it should stay attached.
6.


I used a 2x4 with clamps to hold it down so it would not move. I also used magnets around the edge to help hold those down too. If I had more larger clamps I probably would have used a few more 2x4s instead. 
7.


After it had set for about 12 hours I took off the board. Some of the glue had seeped out some. But that is not a problem. With an exacto blade I can just separate it from the symbol and it just peels off.
8.

All cleaned up. The pencil marks are what I use the align all the parts. I could have cheated and had supports running between the different pieces to keep them all together and aligned, but I figured the extra work need to have the floating would end up looking better. 
9.


Glued on and ready to get masked off for painting. 
10.


Covered the Symbol in painters tape. Using an exacto knife I am going to trim it so it is just covering the logo itself. 
11.


All trimmed up and ready for painting. 
12.

First I covered the surface with a matt clear coat to use it as a kind of primer. I did not want to use a traditional primer so I could keep the finish that the case comes with. 
Next I got out my airbrush and applied a color that is similar to the P3 arcane blue.
13.


Next is a lighter blue to increase the effect of the glue.
14.


Another picture with it outside. There was some painting over spray dust on the the surface from airbrushing so I carefully wiped it down with a rag.I applied 3 coats of clear coat to hopefully add some durability to the paint job as it is only acrylic paint. I you wanted you could use some plastic typed spray paint to do a solid glow that faded out from the inside. You would still want some clear coat on it after. 
15.



Started peeling off the masking tape. I did not score around the edge so some of the tape started taking some paint along with it! So I re-masked the area and fixed the paint. Then I took and exacto blade and scored along the edges of the symbol to separate the paint from the tape.
16.

All the masking take peeled off!
17.


Front View. 
18.


Here is the inside of the case with the horde of Convergence.
19.


View of the case closed.
20.

Front view.
21.

Tuesday
Mar102015

Lighted Convergence Transfinite Emergence Projector

Here is a mostly step by step of me lighting my convergence TEP. If you have any questions let me know! I don't have pictures of all the steps, but there should be enough to get the points across.
The goal of this is to make all the coils and parts that are glowing in the art work actually glow.

First off I put together part of the top spire so I could get a mold of the back coil.
To get the molds I used hot-melt and foam core to make a box for the mold. I used low temp hot-melt so it would not melt and bond to the plastic. I put it on the foam core fire and let it cool some before I pressed it on the model. 


Mold material poured into the mold box.




Some of the smaller parts in their mold.

Molds of the parts that are going to be re-cast in clear.


To make the parts I used clear resin tinted with Tamaya clear blue paint.



Here is what the parts look like cast in regular resin.



Now I cut off the coils on the model so I can put the new ones on. They won't be put on though until I have the base coat of color on. Then they will be glued on and I will finish painting it. 

The new parts cast up. They will need some cleaning and sanding down so they will fit correctly too.



Some of the parts test fit to make sure they are going to work.




The lower section with its' clear parts.

At this point I have primed the model (without the clear parts on it) and painted it with the pear orange base and yellow highlight that I did with the rest of the army. For the steps on this see the previous posts in this thread. 
For the LEDs I used Powered Play lighting kits I had a few alpha kits I had purchased and I used the blue lights out of them. The really nice things about these kits is they are plug and play. So all you have to do it plug in the LEDs, power and switch to the break out board and you are good to go. No soldering, just plug everything in. This way I can also detach the top part from the bottom for storage if I need to. 

Here you can see some of the wiring inside, I have one LED in the top piece and one each in. For the side coils I drilled a small hole in to top of each coil and glued the LED in. The switch is installed in the bottom of the model with the switch tab sticking out the bottom.


I had to grind out the inside of the base some so the 9V battery would fit. Though if you don't want to mess with that Powered Play has some mini 9v batteries too. 
I glued the connector board to the top of the 9v harness so it all stays together. 



Picture with the battery in the model.



I magnetized the top spire so I can get to the battery. Here you can see the connectors from the two LEDs in the top connecting to the connector board.

 

Here you can see it with the clear parts attached and lit up! The extra shield pieces will be painted separate and then glued on once they are done.



Back side view.



Top side view. 



Unlit on it's gear base.

Jumping ahead with all the silver parts painted. 


Starting the shading on the orange and the silver. The glowing parts are also going to get shaded with some clear glue paint, so they look a little more interesting when not lit up.

Working on the base. 


Now jumping ahead to it being all finished.




Without the lights on.


Here is a 360 rotation of the model with the lights on. Enjoy! 
If you have any questions let me know.
Make sure to turn on HD.

http://youtu.be/mu9wL5Kg_is


Saturday
Sep152012

Lighted Warmachine Menoth Vessel of Judgement Battle Engine

I have had lots of requests for how to make the lighted Menoth Battle Engine. I did not take pictures for a full tutorial, but I will post up what I have.

Firstly, I got my hands on the Menoth Vessel of Judgement battle engine. It's a great kit and it makes a great center piece for your army too.

Next up was creating the base. To make the base I cast up some plaster tiles from molds I got at Keebler Studios. I glued them down to a piece of paper, drew a circle the diameter of the inside lip of the base, then dremmeled out the circle.

 Once it was fitting properly and glued down I filled all the gaps around the edges. 

After that I sculpted the flames using green stuff. 

(Figuring out where the battle engine was going to be placed)

(The start of sculpting the flames)

(The finished flames)

When everything was nice and dry it was time to make a silicon mold of the base so I could cast up a clear resin base that I can light up.

The following pictures are of the mold poured and dry. The white on top of the purple mold is a plaster boot. I used it to level the mold as the top was not perfectly flat.

Once I had a mold of the base I wanted, it was time to make a clear one.

And the finished base. I made a few of them figuring that I would need to experiment a little. When I had it planned out where I wanted to put everything and how I wanted to paint it, I would paint up the final one without having to worry about messing it up.

Next step was to hollow out the battle engine itself.

The original plan was to make enough room inside the lower part of the battle engine to have enough room for a 9v battery. Unfortunately, there is just not enough physical space to fit one down there. So I hollowed out as much as I could.

The upper half was a little harder to hollow out. First I drilled out as much as I could from the bottom. After that I had to use a very small dremmel bit and grind out the "windows" on the side until I got the hollowed out center. For the front door I used a dremmel razor saw to cut a fine opening for the door cracking open. You will see pictures of that later as it shows up better once it is lit.

With everything hollowed out it was time to test the LEDs.

I used the LED fire kits from Modeltrainsoftware.com along with some other non-flashing LEDs from them for fill light. These LEDs come with a diode on them so you don't have to worry about putting them on a board to control the flashing.

(Video of the 3 LED kit)

And here is a video of the battle engine lit up from the inside. Some of the light is showing through the sides, but that will be fixed once it gets painted.

 Once I had an idea of how bright the LEDs would be I took one of my test bases, drilled some holes for the LEDs under the flames (will show this later on the final base), and lit it up.

At this point it was time I added some color to the sample base. I taped off the flames and primed the rest of the base. Once that was dry I clear coated the flames to act as a primer so the translucent paint that I was going to use would stick to it.

Once I had the basic plan of how I want to pull this off, it was time to finish up the assembly for the Vessel and the final base.

I marked the spots on the final base where I wanted to put LEDs along with the location that I would drill through the base for the wires that would go up into the Vessel.

When I drilled the holes for the LEDs, I looked at the base edgewise to make sure I did not drill too far up into the base. I wanted the LEDs to light up the base without you seeing an LED up in the middle of the flames.

(LED locations)

(Wiring hole location)

The following picture is a out of order from the way I did it, but it would be better to put that step next. You get to benefit from my hindsight. :)

On the bottom of the base I needed channels and a hollowed out area for the wire runs and a place to make up the wiring. This makes a HORRID mess grinding out the resin. Do this outside and use a mask. Resin dust is NOT good for you and gets everywhere.

(You can see the channels in this picture)

The plan to get power to the base/Vessel was to have the wires come up through the wheel and into the Vessel from the side.

(You can also see some of the sculpting and fill work in this picture)

The prep work done, it was time for some paint!

For the final base I did the same as for the test base: taped off the flames and primed it, then some clear coat to "prime" the flames for the translucent paints.

(First coat of paint on the base)

The flames were painted with Tamiya yellow, Tamiya red, and Vallejo Smoke. This way when it is not lit up it still looks good and it adds even more to the fire effect once it is lit.

 

Now on to the Vessel itself. I stuck pretty close to the stock Menoth color scheme as that is what the rest of my army is. I did decide that is needed a little more filigree though....

I attached the Vessel to some old spray paint bottles so I had something a little more substantial to hold onto and to keep me from touching the model as I painted it.

After doing the basic shading I drew on the filigree with a pencil that I would then paint over.

(Starting the gold)

(The shading on the metals is over exposed in these pictures)

(Working on the "red" on the Vessel)

(Working on the Priest and the guy pulling it)

Once everything was all painted, it all got a few layers of clear coat. Most of my stuff gets about 3-4 coats once I am done. I play quite a bit with the models so I want them to last as long as possible before I have to start doing touch ups again. I usually put on 2 coats of matt or gloss clear, then follow up with 2 of Testors Dull coat. The reason for this is the gloss varnishes much tougher than the dull coat. I use the dull coat to bring everything back down to a flat luster.

Everything was pretty much finished being painted at this point so it was time to finish the LEDs and wiring.

Here I am test-fitting the LEDs, checking for hole depth, and making sure I liked the light coverage/patterns on the top when lit. At this point the Vessel was not attached to the base. :)

Once I was happy with how it looked I used low temp hot melt gun (if you use a high temp gun you will melt the LEDs and wiring) to seal in the LEDs and trimmed the wires to the lengths they would need to be.

The base done, I wired up the Vessel and glued it to the base. (You can see the Vessel wire coming though the base on the picture above)

The two connectors inside the Vessel are for when it is running off battery power from inside. I also have another pair on the bottom that can be connected to an external power source for when it is on display.

Here it is put together and running off internal power.

Next up was making a base for it to run off external power with. I could not find a base I wanted on short notice so I ended up making one. It had a switch on the back of it and held 6 C cell batteries, so it had enough power to run the weekend at a Con. in a painting competition display case.

I laminated four pieces of wood together so I could have a hollow inside for the batteries.

 

Skipping ahead, I sanded it smooth, stained it, and added the front placard.

Finally all finished and ready for display and/or burning the heretics on the battle field!

(You can see more pictures of it in the Menoth galleries too)